1/before you start drafting take your measurement carefully you need three measurements: your waist, your hips, and your waist to hip length.

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WAIST: measure around the body on the narrowest part of the waist. (70cm) 

HIP: measure around the widest part of the hip.(96cm)

WAIST TO THE HIP LENGHT: from the waist to the hip. (22cm)

SKIRT LENGTH: measure from the waistline to the desired length.(60cm) 

A-B AND D-C = skirt length, for my skirt, I use 60 cm  

A-E = waist to hip length: 22 cm.

A-D AND B-C = (hip + ease)/2 : (96+2)/2=49

A-F AND B-G = 1/2 A-D -1 : (49/2)-1= 23.5

TRACE THE  LINE F,F1,G

How to calculate the darts of skirt

1/calculate the difference between the hip line and 1/2 of the waist.

 my skirt measurement waist is 70 cm and my hip is A-D: 49-(70/2) = 14cm.

 2/divide this measure you found by 2 in order to distribute the same value on the front and on the back of the skirt: 14/2=7

Where to place darts in a skirt 

Back of the skirt 

On the back side of the skirt H-F, the dart width should not exceed  4.5 to 5 cm 

so for my skirt H-F = 3.5 cm 

next, I divide A-H by 2 and I put my dart that should not exceed as well 3 to 4 cm.

for my skirt, I put: 3.5 

the length of the dart is 4 time their value: 3.5x4 =12

A-A1= 1.5 cm.

now trace you line A1-H

Front of the skirt 

F-L= 4 cm should not exceed as well 4.5 to 5 cm  

divide L-D by 3 and put 2 darts each one = 1.5 cm

the length of the dart is 4 time their value: 1.5x4 =6

D-D1= 0.5 cm 

trace you line D1-L

Fashion Patternmaking Techniques: How to Make Jackets, Coats and Cloaks for Women and Men

This volume explores and provides clear and detailed and in detail illustrated explanations of all kinds of outerwear patterns for women and men.Antonio Donnanno is a patternmaking techniques teacher, fashion school director, and author of dozens of fashion books.Famous consultant and author Elisabetta Drudi has illustrated the book.

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, Patternmaking for Fashion Design offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles–dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring–it provides students with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity

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